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Roshan accompanies his dying grandmother Annapurna to their ancestral property in Old Delhi where he is initially stunned by the mad rush of neighbours: Ali Baig the renaissance man, feuding brothers Madangopal and Jaigopal, their wives and families, Mamdu the confectioner, Gobar the simpleton, Sethji and many others.
Roshan accompanies his grandmother to the Ramleelas, hangs out at Mamdu’s sweet stall, plays with the children, and gradually becomes steeped in the culture. When Annapurna faints due to fluctuating blood sugar levels and everyone scrambles to get her to a hospital, Roshan finds the roads choked by traffic because of an impromptu ceremony around a cow in labour; he is further surprised when his grandmother, despite her stupor, stumbles forth to seek the blessings of the cow and the local police seem to encourage the practice. Roshan begins to understand the feuds and social issues in the community.
Madangopal’s sister Rama is unwed and Jaigopal’s electrical business is going nowhere. The lecherous old local money lender Lala Bhairam’s wife Shashi is having an affair with a young photo-studio hand Suresh, a double timer also pursuing Madangopal’s daughter Bittu who secretly prepares to audition for a popular reality show Indian Idol. Roshan is surprised to learn that Ali Baig fancied his mother many years ago and has since never married. Roshan also comes to empathize with the lower-caste trash collector girl Jalebi, and crosses paths with the loutish inspector Ranvijay who blithely stretches his authorities to manhandle the locals.
On the other hand, the media is all abuzz with tales of a miscreant known as the “Kala Bandar” who attacks, steals and has caused the death of a few innocent people. After some initial friction, Roshan and Bittu warm to each other. Roshan intervenes when he learns of Madangopal trying to get Bittu married against her wishes, but earns Madangopal’s wrath. While supporting her dreams, he gradually begins to fall in love with her. Bittu too begins to reciprocate but is left saddened by the news of his return to America. Later when Roshan confonts Bittu after Madangopal fixes her marriage forcibly, he is disappointed when she expresses her plan of eloping with Suresh in order to achieve her dreams, unaware of his hidden affair with Shashi and his other intentions.
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